SONGKRAN. It is the Thai New Year. It is AWESOME. I may not be completely sure about this, but I believe it started as a gentle water celebration where people would kindly wash away all the bad by pouring water onto one’s hands or on a buddha. Of course, “because Thailand”, it turned into an all-out water brawl across the country (with some very shocking fatality numbers as well). SONGKRAN (yes I will capitalize every time because it is that incredible) can last anywhere from 3 days to one week, sometimes more. This year it was officially April 13-15. I made the choice to travel to Chiang Mai because it is said to be the best place to celebrate SONGKRAN. A month before the holiday, I attempted to buy bus tickets up to the North, but failed because they were already sold out completely for all days. So I decided it was time to splurge and bought an airline ticket.
I arrived the night of the 11th, graciously picked up on motorbike by my ex-fellow teacher, Lexxi’s boyfriend’s brother, Geoff (he quickly became my new best friend). I ended up staying at Lexxi’s very, very nice apartment for the entire duration of my stay in Chiang Mai, which ended up being a total of 5 nights. The first couple of nights (before the official chaos began), we went to some nice bars and clubs in Chaing Mai and delicious restuarants including a Hot Pot place where you choose and cook all the food you want, “aloi maak!” (“very delicious”).
Now, I will start on the actual holiday itself. Songkran (pronounced Sown-Gahn) brings people from all over the world to Thailand. Chiang Mai does happen to be the most popular city of all, so needless to say, it was a pretty packed city. To prepare for SONGKRAN, the week before everyone begins to dress in assortments of Hawaiian print shirts. Yes, this is the official SONGKRAN uniform. Because of the danger proposed by bystanders waiting to dose you with water, either politely or violently, we would walk every day into the main Olde City where the real action was. It was a short 15 minute walk, full of enthusiasm and fear. There are you things you are never sure of during SONGKRAN: you never know how hard someone will hit you with water and you never know how cold it will be.
During this exciting holiday, NO MERCY IS TAKEN! if you are outside or on the road, you WILL NOT stay dry for more than 10 minutes. Lexxi’s boyfriend is very close with the ChiangMai Backpack House Hostel owner, so we posted up there for most of the 3 days. It looks out onto one of the main roads in Olde City and the ever-so-dirty moat. If you have never been to Chaing Mai, most of the city consists of a moat splitting the roads so oncoming traffic is on the other side of the moat. I will tell you, although I probably shouldn’t, that this moat is used as a disposal to just about everything except (but probably not) sewage. But, being that it is water, thousands of people set up camp next to the moat, so that a quick bucket tied to a rope can be dropped in and water can be collected. I would guess about 90% of all water used came from the moat. Ew.
Long story short, almost everyone (if they’re smart) is packing heat, with water guns of course. I quickly purchased my adorable Doraemon water gun backpack, which quickly broke, but was replaced by a jet pack water gun (which I highly recommend). If you are on the street you either have a water gun or a bucket. Every shop, every market, every restaurant, every truck has at least one HUGE barrel that remains full of water for splashing passerby’s. I did, twice, get to ride on the back of a truck. Once with Stephen’s Thai family, which turned out to be a freezing adventure because people would stock their barrels with huge ice blocks. Every now and then you’d get the disgusting but greatly appreciated warm moat water. And another time, myself, Mary, and a girl named Olivia hopped into the back of a bunch of Thai guys truck to help them in battle until they dropped us off at a Psychiatric Hospital (I think by chance, ha!). Both rides were epic. There were floats of kids, Chang Beer girls, university students, and my favorite Ladyboy Miss Universe “contestants” (Miss Venezuela and I had an intense war going on).
I’m not sure if I depicted this momentous fiasco well enough, or if it is even possible to describe to one who has not participated in it, but in the case that it isn’t, there are pictures for proof. (WARNING: the pictures I will post may be blurry and very bad, but understand that anything valuable spent an entire 4 days in a waterproof pouch so pictures were taking through cloudy, sometimes red plastic).
The Moat
What we were working with
ready for battle
attack from my allies
Proof we were best friends
partners in crime
NO MERCY!
the streets
the ground everywhere
this couple tried to stay dry so our driver sped up, pulled up next to them so we could specifically soak them..amateurs.
the cars never stopped coming
olde city
the front line
freezing truck ride
our iced water barrels
victory!
Geoff and I
Me, Myself, and Thailand 
Holy crap. I hate to get wet like that. What a nightmare!
Sent from my iPad
haha, then you should avoid Thailand in April
Reblogged this on What Gives and commented:
Wish I were there!!
Maybe we should fight all wars this way! Fun, cheap, good for the plants, non-fatal,aggression outlet. In dry areas we could just throw dirt or sand, which would mean we would require goggles.
I think that is the best idea! I’m willing to spread the word!
Oh gosh. Looks like fun, but only with nice warm water. Glad you survived.
It’s always surprising to learn of yet another way in which other cultures celebrate the new year — not to mention when theirs begins. Great post and pictures, Lulu!
Thank you so much. It definitely is one of the most interesting and fun celebrations i’ve seen or heard about! I recommend it to everyone!
Really liked the story and the pics especially the pics shot through red plastic pouches. I wish I were in Thailand. However, specifically, did you see any dead bodies floating in the moat or is it not that kind of moat????
haha, no its not that kind of moat…more like one for decoration and a trash/recycle/compost for all street vendors and restaurants